Toe binder



J FAUSSE 'Ton BINDER Filed May 29. 1922 Jan. 19 1926.

Patented Jan. 19, 1926.

UNITED STATES.

PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH FAUSSE, F BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB T0 UNITED SHOE MA- CHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

TOE BINDER.

Application filed ma 29, 1922. Serial No. 564,407.

the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, 18 a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several gures.

This invention relates to toe binders for i use in the lasting of shoes to hold the upper in lasted position about the toe. The invention is herein illustrated in its application to the lasting of welt shoes, for which it has very important advantages, but it will be recognized that the binder hereinafter described may likewise be used in the lasting of other kinds of shoes, for example turn shoes.

In lasting the toes of welt shoes it has been the customary practice heretofore to secure the upper in lasted position by the use of a wire binder, In applying such a binder to the shoe the operator twists the end of the binder wire about an anchor tack at one si'de of the toe and then draws the wire about the toe and anchors it to a tack at the other side of the shoe while the upper is held by the lasting Wipers. Thereafter the upper is trimmed about the toe and the side lasting tacks and side pulling-over tacks are removed, care being required in the tack pulling operation not to withdraw the tacks which anchor the binder. welting operation the stitches pass under the binder wire, and the binder with its anchor tacks is thus left between a portion of the welt and the upstanding margin of the upper to be subsequently removed as a special operation.

While the wire binder is the most practi cal means heretofore devised for holding the toe of an upper in lasted position, its use .is-attended with several disadvantages To apply the wire about the toe and anchor it in the manner above explained is a com In the anchor tacks when the other tacks are withdrawn from the shoe. To have the binder and its anchor tacks on the shoe in the, welting operation, as has been usually necessary heretofore, is likewise recognize as not an ideal condition. A still more serious difficulty in the use of the wire binder is that it sometimes fails to hold the upper as securely as it should for the best results in the welting operation. Along the sides of the toe, for example, the flexibility of the wire sometimes permits it to be bent or sprung outward by reaction of the upper materials or by the action of the upper trimming in strumentalities, and under such conditions, where the upper is not held closely in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole, the needle of the Welter is likely to pass through the upper at a considerable inclination to the surface of the stock, instead of directly from side to side, and may also enter the rib of the insole too high, resulting in a loose inseam.

Among its objects the present invention aims to provide a binder by the use of which the disadvantages heretofore encountered will be avoided and better results secured in lasting and in subsequent operationson the shoe. To this and other ends, a feature of the invention consists in a binder having upper engaging faces disposed in angular with upper engaging faces thus disposed and extending for a substantial distance widthwise of the feather and heightwise of the rib of the insole, the action of the wipers, in shaping the upper to the angle of the insole is continued y the binder itself in the time interval which itv is customary to allow for the setting of the upper in lasted shape prior to the welting operation; and it has been found that a binder so formed and properly applied to the shoe results in such effective shaping of the upper that the binder may be removed from the shoe prior to the welting, thus leaving the upper free about the too as well as along the sides of the shoe for the action of the Welter. By removing the binder, moreover, before the lasting tacks and the pulling-over tacks are withdrawn from the shoe the tack pulling operation is greatly facilitated.

A further feature of the invention consists in a binder so shaped as to be engaged by the wipers of a lasting machine for pressing the binder both inwardly toward the rib and downwardly upon the feather of the insole. the binder herein shown having wiper engaging faces which are angularly disposed similarly to its upper engaging faces. By the action of the wipers the binder may thus be applied to the shoe with heavy molding pressure much more effectively for the purposes in view, as well as more easily, than wire binders as heretofore applied by hand about the toe. \Vhile the binder is thus held by the wipers it may be fastened to the shoe, for example by the use of one or more tacks at each side of the toe, and for this purpose the binder herein shown is provided with holes in its opposite end portions through which tacks may be driven, although the invention is not limited to a binder secured in this particular manner.

I lVhile the binder herein shown has differ ent upper engaging portions arranged as above described for holding the upper inwardly against the rib of the insole and upon the feather of the insole. there are recognized in each of these different portions of the binder novel and useful features not dependent upon its combination with the other portion. and accordingly the invention in some of its aspects is not limited to a binder including different angularly related portions or faces.

It is contemplated that for the purposes in view the binder may most conveniently and satisfactorily be made of sheet metal bent or molded in the required shape. for example of zinc or galvanized iron or other metal of non-corrosive character, and the invent on is herein illustrated in its application to such a binder. It is recognized, however. that the purposes of the invention may be served by the use of sheet material other than metal. for example leatherboard, and it is to be understood that in many of its aspects the invention is not limited to the use of material of any particular kind or character nor to the manner in which the material is treated to produce the binder.

The various features and advantages of the invention will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 shows a toe binder embodying the features of the invention;

Fig. 2 illustrates how the binder is applied to a shoe by the use of the wipers of a lasting machine and how it is anchored to the shoe;

Fig. 3 is a cross section illustrating more fully than Fig. 2 the relation of the binder to the shoe materials and to the wipers;

Fig. l illustrates the trimming of the upper about the toe while the upper is held by the binder, and

Fig. 5 illustrates the \velting of the shoe after the binder has been removed.

In the manufacture of the binder illustrated in l ig. l, a strip of sheet metal of suitable width and of such length as to extend about the toe of a lasted shoe from one side of the toe to the other is bent or molded in angular shape in any suitable wcll-kimwn manner. to provide a portion or strip .2 for engagement with the upstanding margin of the upper, and a portion or strip :lfor engaging that part of the upper which lies upon the feather of the insole. The binder illustrated is shaped in cross section to conform approximately to the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole. the different portions of the binder in the construction shown forming with each other, however. an angle which slightly less than a right angle in order that the angle in the upper materials may be sharply defined and to render the gathcred marginal portion of the upper more effective, through its tendency to expand. to hold the binder down close to the feather of the insole. For some work, however. it may be preferable to give the binder a right angular conformation. It will be observed that the portion 4 of the binder is of such width as to extend outwardly over the feather substantially to the outer side face of the upper, and the portion 2 may. as shown. extend upwardly above the rib of the insole. although the invention is not limited to the precise width illustrated for these different portions of the binder. As a part of the operation of making the binder. it may be also shaped. as shown in Fig. 1. in approximate conformity to the curvature of the toe end of the style of shoe upon which the binder is to be used. although it may sometimes be preferred to furnish the binder without such curvature to be bent about the toe as it is applied to the shoe. In each of its end portions the binder may have one or more holes 6 through which tacks are to be driven to fasten the binder to the shoe. By the provision of a plurality of holes in each end, as illustrated. a plurality of tacks may be driven at each side of the toe if desired. and opportunity also is afforded for selectively locating the tacks lengthwise of the shoe. for example in the use of the binder on different sizes of shoes.

The best. way ofusing the binder above described, in accordance with my present experience, in lasting. a shoe, for example, on. the well'known type ofbed lasting machine,

. is to operate the wipers a asusual to work the upper into lasted position, and. then. to

back them off and raise them sufliciently to. permit the binder to be inserted in the angle formed preliminarily by the action of the wipers. The wipers are then again advanced and closed and also pressed downwardly toward the shoe bottom, and. in this operation they act against the binder to,

Thereafter the wipers are, withdrawn and. the shoe 1s removed from the machme.

It will be evident that as the binder is thusapplied and asit remains on the shoe in the customary interval allowed for the upper materials to set in lasted shape, it exertsa molding pressure upon the upper to shape it closely in the angle between: the feather and the rib of the insole. The portion 2 of the binder presses together and holds the gathers or folds in the upstanding margin of theupper muchmore closely than has been possibleheretofore by the use of. binder wire. By forming the binder with its diflejrent portions at an angle to each other which is somewhat less than a right angle, the resiliency of the folds or gathers in the margin of the, upper, acting upon the outwardly flaring portion 2, assists materially in holding the binderclosely down. upon that part of the upper which overlies the feather ofthe. insole.

While the binder remains attached to the shoe the latter is subjected to an upper trimming operation as illustrated. in Fig. 4,

whereby the surplus margin of the upper aboutthe toe is removed by the action of a trimming knife 0. It will be evident that in this operation the binder presents a very convenient guide for the work positioning member f ofthetrimming machine. There? after the binder is removed, the lasting tacks and side pulling-over tacks are withdrawn, and the shoe is welted as shown in Fig. As will be evident from the foregoing description, very important advantages are involved in the use of the binder of this invention by reason of the better and: more permanent shape which is thereby imparted to the 'upper materials, as well as for the reason that in the welting operation there is no binder present to interfere in any way.

with the operation of the Welter. The shape imparted to the upper materials in the angle between the feather and the rib of the in sole result-s in a better and tighter inseam than has been possible heretofore-even with the wire binder on the shoe during the welting, since the needle of the waiter passes directly through the upper from side to side close to the feather of the insole and there is no substantial danger that the needle will enter the upper in the wrong location as sometimes results where the upper not held closely down at the base of the sewing rib. Such improved results are particularly noticeable along the sides of the toe at the rear of the curved end where, particularly on a narrow-toed shoe, the rib of the insole is substantially straight. In the use of wire hinders the resistance of the anchor tacks to strain on the binder is principally in. a direction lengthwise of the shoe, and therefore while the upper may be held effectively at the curved end of the toe there is comparatively little resistance to bending of the flexible wire along the sides of the toe at the rear of the curved end. It is a well-known fact that along the sides of the toe thereis thus, in the useof a wire binder, comparatively littleresistance to reaction ofthe upper materials, and it has, therefore, sometimes been necessary to reshape the sides of the toe prior to welting. B the use of the present invention the need or any such reshaping operation is avoided, since the portion a of thebinder which extends for a considerable distance Widthwise of the feather of the insole and asherein shown is of substantially the same width as the feather, is very eflectively resistant to the outward bending strains at the sides of the toe as well as at other portions of the toe,

and the upstanding strip 2 likewise resists any upward bending strains. Such resist: ance is also an important advantage in the upper trimming operation, illustrated in Fig. 4, in which there is a tendency for the trimming instrumentalities to push the upper outward from the rib in trimming at least along one of the sides of the toe. It will be evident, moreover, that in the upper trimming operation the. gathers in the margin of the upper are held closely together about the toe and the upper is supported firmly by the upstanding portion 2 of the binder. Still other advantages that may be mentioned are the facility with which the binder may be applied and anchored to the shoe, and the opportunity afforded for removing the binder prior to the tack pulling operation, as hereinbefore explained.

It will be understood that while the different angularly related strips or portions 2 and l of the binder co-operate with each other in various ways in effecting the desirable results hereinl'iefore set forth, each of these portions of the binder has, in addition, important novel and useful. functions which are not dependent upon the presence of the other.

It is contemplated that the same binder will. be used repeatedly in lasting different shoes, and in lasting shoes of the same size and style the binder may be thus used an indefinite number of times. It will also be recognized that more or less shaping of the binder may be performed by the wipers of the lasting machine, and therefore the same binder may be used even for lasting toes of different shapes, particularly where the differences in shape are coi'nparatively small. As hereinbefore explained, it is contemplated that the binder, at the time of its manufacture, will preferably be shaped in sub stantial conformity to the shape of the toe of that size and style of shoe upon which it is to be used, although in many of its aspects the invention is not limited to a binder which is shaped in this particular respect.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a. member adapted to be applied about the toe of a shoe over the feather of the insole and having upper engaging faces arranged to extend about the toe in angular relation to each other for engagement respectively with the upstanding margin of the upper and with a portion of the upper which lies upon the feather of the insole for holding the upper in substantial conformity to the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole.

2. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member of sheet material of such length as to extend about the toe of a shoe from one side of the toe to the other and shaped to present about the toe a sul stantially flat strip of material for engaging the upper over the feather of the insole and another strip of material in angular relation to said first named strip to extend heightwise of the rib of the insole for engagement with the upstanding margin of the upper.

3. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a sheet metal member bent in approximate conformity to the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole and so constructed as to adapt it for attachment to the shoe at the opposite sides of the forepart to hold it in place against the upper in said angle.

4. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member adapted to be applied to the upper about the toe of a shoe in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole, said member having a face of ap proximately the same width as the feather of the insole formed to lie substantially flat upon the upper over the feather and another face at an angle to the first extending for a substantial distance heightwise of the rib of the insole for holding the upstanding margin of the upper against the rib.

ii. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member of sheet material of such length as to extend about the toe of a shoe from one side of the toe to the other and of angular shape in cross section to conform approximately to the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole, said member having a lengthwise curvature to conform substantially to the curvature of the edge of the shoe bottom about the toe.

G. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member adapted to be a plied about the toe of a shoe over the feat er of the insole and having faces disposed in angular relation to each other for engagement respectively with the upstanding margin of the upper and with a portion of the upper which lies upon the feather of the insole, said member having on its outer side other faces arranged to be disposed similarly about the toe in angular relation to each other and adapted to be engaged by the wipers of a lasting machine for pressing the binder into the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole.

7. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member adapted to be applied about the toe of a shoe in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole, said member having faces disposed in angular relation to each other and adaptedto be engaged by the wipers of a lasting machine for pressing the binder both inwardly toward the rib of the insole and downwardly toward the feather of the insole simultaneously.

S. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member adapted to be applied about the toe of a shoe in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole, said member having portions shaped respectively to lie under and in front of the edges of the wipers of a lasting machine to be forced into place by said wipers, the end portions of said member being so constructed as to adapt them for attachment to the shoe while the member is held by the wipers.

9. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member of sheet material adapted to be applied about the toe of a shoe in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole and having portions disposed in angular relation to each other to be engaged by the wipers of a lasting 11111 chine for pressing the binder both inwardly toward the rib of the insole and downwardly toward the feather of the insole, said member having in its opposite ends holes so located as to lie beyond the ends of the wipers and through which tacks may be driven While the binder is held by the wipers for anchoring the binder to the shoe.

10. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member of sheet material portable with the shoe and of such length as to extend about the toe from one side of the toe to the other, said member having a portion shaped to lie substantially flat upon the upper in parallel relation to the feather of the insole and to extend continuously about the toe from one side of the toe to the other to mold the upper against the feather of the insole and to resist outward strains in directions widthwise of the toe.

11.. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member adapted to be applied about the toe ofa shoe over the feather of the insole and having an upper engaging face substantially straight widthwise and of approximately the same width as the feather of the insole for pressing and holding the upper flat upon said feather about the end and along the sides of the toe.

12. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member of sheet material constructed to present an upper engaging face substantially straight widthwise for engagementwith the upstanding margin of the upper in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole said member having also a portion in angular relation to said upstanding face to lie in substantially parallel relation to the feather of the insole.

13. A toe binder for use in lasting shoes comprising a member adapted to be applied about the toe of a shoe in the angle between the feather and the rib of the insole and having faces arranged respectively to en gage the upstanding margin of the upper and a portion of the upper that lies upon the feather of the insole and forming With each other an angle smaller than a right angle.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

JOSEPH FAUSSE. 

